Tissue basic binding types

Basic binding types

Fabrics are distinguished between three different basic weave types: plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.

What is tissue?

A woven fabric consists of warp and weft threads, which interlock to form a surface. Warp threads always run lengthwise, while weft threads always run crosswise. By raising and lowering the warp threads, a shed is created into which the weft thread is inserted. The specific arrangement of these interlockings results in different weave types.

What is a binding cartridge?

The different types of weaves can also be represented graphically. This graphic representation is called a weave chart. When drawing a chart, you always start in the bottom left corner and then draw towards the top right. A chart is like a grid of graph paper. Where a square is filled, there is a warp thread lying over a weft thread. This type of interlacing between warp and weft threads is also called warp raising. In a warp lowering, the warp thread would lie under the weft thread, and the square in the chart would not be filled.
So-called binding points describe the points where warp threads interlace with weft threads.

Abbreviations/Codes of Tissue Bonding

An example of a plain weave code would look like this:
10-0101-01-00.
The first number indicates the weave type: plain weave 10, twill weave 20, and satin weave 30.
The second numbers, 0101, indicate the number of warp raises (one) and warp lowers (one).
The third number indicates the thread count, i.e., the number of threads interlacing in the same direction; in this case, it is only one.
The fourth number is the offset or pitch number. 00 in this case means oppositely interlaced, or, put simply, no offset.

What is a report?

A repeat is the smallest pattern unit in a fabric, i.e., the minimum size a cartridge must have to produce a fabric.
To determine the correct minimum size, you have to add up the warp raises and warp sinks. If the abbreviation were, for example, 20-0301-01, then the minimum repeat that would have to be drawn would be 4x4 squares (three warp raises + one warp sink).

Plain weave

(10-0101-01-00)

Plain weave fabrics are very dense, with a firm, grainy feel. They are breathable and, when made with strong yarns, highly durable.
Textiles made from this weave are very hard-wearing and resistant to wear and tear.
A distinctive feature of plain weave is its weave points, which touch on all sides. This gives both sides of the fabric an identical appearance.

Derivatives of plain weave

Derivatives of plain weave include, for example, warp ribs, weft ribs and the Panama weave.

Twill weave

(20-0201-01-01)

Fabrics woven in twill weave are looser and fuller than those woven in plain weave, but due to their dense construction, they are still very strong and durable. A distinctive feature is the diagonal pattern, known as the twill rib. This is created by the laterally offset binding points.
If the twill rib runs from the upper left to the lower right, it is called an S-twill. If the rib runs from the lower left to the upper right, it is called a Z-twill.
A further distinction is made between warp and weft twill. In a warp twill, more warp threads than weft threads are visible on the fabric's surface. In a weft twill, the weft threads predominate.
Perhaps the most well-known fabric woven in twill weave is denim.

Extensions/Derivatives of the body bond

Extensions of the twill weave include, for example, ribbed twill, multi-ribbed twill, and broad-ribbed twill.
Derivatives of the twill weave include, for example, steep-ribbed twill, flat-ribbed twill, and pointed-ribbed twill.

Atlas binding

(30-0401-01-02)

Satin weaves produce fabrics with a loose, flowing drape. Made from fine yarns, they create a very dense, lustrous, and supple fabric. A distinctive characteristic of satin weaves is their evenly spaced binding points, which never touch at any point in the repeat. This means that these fabrics have many thread floats, which always carries the risk of thread pulls. These long floats occur when a warp thread lies over several weft threads. This means that the warp thread only binds in later. This gives the fabric its floats, which make it very susceptible to thread pulls, but also give it its smooth drape. This weave is frequently found in lining fabrics such as satin. Satin weaves are further
divided into warp satin and weft satin. In warp satin, the warp threads determine the fabric's surface. In weft satin, the fabric's surface is determined by the weft threads.

Derivatives of the Atlas bond

Derivatives of the atlas weave include, for example, striped satin, multicolored satin or damask.