Seam production

Double-stitched seam

For this seam, the fabric pieces are first sewn together right sides facing, then pressed open and topstitched twice close to the edge on the right side of the fabric, so that the previous seam lies in the middle. This seam is particularly flat and durable, but is more commonly used as a decorative seam for items such as blouses/shirts or T-shirts.

True flat-felled seam

The first step in this seam is to press the seam allowances open. Then, the seam allowances are folded wrong side to right side around the cut edges so that they interlock. Next, both the folded edge and the underlying folded edge are topstitched close to the edge from the right side. This seam is very robust and serves as both a functional and decorative seam; it is primarily used on jeans.

Incorrect flat-felled seam

To create this seam, the fabric pieces are first sewn together right sides facing, 1.5 cm from the edge. Then, the seam allowances are pressed to one side, and topstitched close to the edge from the right side of the fabric, next to the fold and along the seam allowance. The mock flat-felled seam, just like the true flat-felled seam, can be used for both practical and decorative purposes. It is also frequently used as a joining seam for seams subject to high stress. This seam is also found on shoulder seams of items such as T-shirts, sweatshirts, and hoodies.

Basement seam

First, two pieces of fabric are ironed on the fold and then placed on a third piece of fabric. The two folded edges lie against each other on the third piece and are then stitched together at equal distances from the fold. This seam is used as a decorative and functional seam, for example, for sewing in concealed zippers.

Piping seam

For this seam, you need a bias strip, which you place right sides together, edge to edge, on the corresponding fabric piece and stitch in place. Then, the bias tape is folded over, wrapped around the fabric edge, and stitched in the shadow of the seam.

Right-left seam / French seam

First, place the two fabric pieces wrong sides together and stitch them along the edge, using a presser foot's width as a guide. Then fold the fabric edges over and press them in half. Stitch this folded edge as well. Note: This seam requires double the seam allowance! This type of seam is primarily used for finishing edges.

hem seam

For this seam, the fabric is folded twice to the wrong side along the edge and pressed. The resulting fold is then topstitched close to the edge from the wrong side of the fabric. This utility seam serves as a finishing seam, for example, for sleeve or trouser hems.

Quilted seam / Simple seam

For a simple seam, the two pieces of fabric are placed right sides together and stitched 1 cm from the edge. The seam allowances are then pressed open. This type of topstitching is used for utility, decorative, and finishing purposes, and is always employed when two pieces of fabric need to be sewn together, for example, on T-shirts, blouses, or hoodies.

drop seam

To create a purl seam, first place the two pieces of fabric right sides together. Then, stitch the two pieces together approximately 1 cm from the edge. Finally, fold the two pieces of fabric to one side and press them wrong sides together at the fold. This type of purl seam is used, for example, for bag linings.

Gathered seam

To create a gathered seam, first sew a long stitch along the edge of one piece of fabric, leaving long thread tails. Then pull on the thread tails so that the fabric begins to gather. Place the gathered fabric right sides together on a second piece of fabric and stitch alongside the basting stitch. Once the two pieces are stitched together, remove the basting thread. Press the fabric in half along the stitching. The gathered seam is purely decorative and is frequently used on blouses and dresses.

Stitching / topstitching / basting

Topstitching refers to a type of stitch. The terms "topstitching" or "seam-stitching" describe sewing a straight seam that looks the same from both sides. This stitch joins at least two or more layers of fabric together and is usually only visible on the wrong side of the fabric.

Narrow-edged

Close-to-the-edge and narrow-to-the-edge describe the distance, for example, from the fabric edge where the sewing is to take place. Close-to-the-edge means a distance of 1 mm from the edge. When sewing narrowly, a distance of 2 mm must be maintained.

Fracture edge / fabric break

The term "fold edge" or "fabric fold" simply means that the fabric is folded or turned over at this specific point. A fold edge is always a straight line, which usually runs parallel to the grain and selvedge.

Fabric edge / cut edge

The fabric edge, or cut edge, describes the edge where a piece of fabric was cut. The fabric edge is, so to speak, the end/border of a piece of fabric.

Seam allowance / double seam allowance / presser foot width

Seam allowances are extra fabric pieces added when cutting out individual fabric pieces to ensure enough material is available for seams. For example, a 1cm seam allowance might be added during cutting, but this is then sewn away during sewing so that the finished garment has the exact dimensions specified on the pattern. Common seam allowances are 1.5cm, 1cm, or 0.7cm.
A 0.7cm seam allowance is also called a presser foot width, as the presser foot of a sewing machine, when the needle is set straight, sews exactly 0.7cm from the edge.

If a pattern calls for a double seam allowance, simply double the seam allowance at the specified point. For example, if a 1.5cm seam allowance is indicated, add a 3cm seam allowance at the marked point.

Utility seam / Decorative seam / Overlock seam / Joining seam

A utility seam is necessary and serves a specific purpose, such as holding two pieces of fabric together.
Decorative seams, on the other hand, are purely aesthetic and not essential; they have no functional benefit.
Overlock seams ensure that our textiles have no unsightly raw edges. They cover all open edges so that the finishes (edges) look neat and won't fray during wear and washing.

Seams join two or more pieces of fabric together. They are essential for every textile.

Bias stripes / bias tape

Bias strips are narrow strips of fabric, usually between 10mm and 25mm wide, cut at a 45° angle to the selvedge. This special cutting method makes the strips extremely stretchy, allowing them to be used for finishing fabric edges. Necklines on T-shirts are particularly often finished with bias strips.
Bias strips can be made at home or purchased pre-cut and pressed under the name bias tape.

In the shadow of the seam / In the seam shadow

Sewing in the shadow of the seam means sewing on the right side of the fabric along the seam line formed by two previously sewn pieces. First, you sew two pieces of fabric together, right sides facing, then press the seam allowances open, and finally sew along the seam line from the right side of the fabric. Generally, you use matching thread, as the seam will then be virtually invisible, hidden in the shadow of the previous seam.

Right / left side of fabric

Every fabric has two sides: a front, also called the right side, and a back, also called the wrong side. When sewing, fabric pieces are usually placed right sides together, i.e., on the wrong side, so that the right sides are facing each other.

hem / hems

A hem describes a folded and sewn edge on garments. For example, as a finish on sleeves or trouser legs.

Large stitch / basting / tacking seam

Basting refers to a particularly large, loose stitch. Pattern pieces are only roughly sewn together with a basting stitch, either to allow for a fitting or to create gathers in certain areas of the fabric. Gathering is created by pulling the threads of the basting stitch together. Basting stitches never remain in the fabric; they serve only as a rough fastening and are replaced by more robust seams during the finishing process.