Fabric basic weave types

Basic binding types

When it comes to fabrics, a distinction is made between three different types of basic weave: plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.

What is a tissue?

A fabric consists of warp and weft threads, which form a surface by crossing them. Warp threads always run lengthwise, while weft threads always run crosswise. By raising and lowering the warp threads, a so-called compartment is created into which the weft thread is inserted. Depending on what exactly these crossings look like, different types of binding are created.

What is a binding cartridge?

The different types of binding can also be shown graphically. This graphic representation is called a binding cartridge. When drawing a cartridge, you always start at the bottom left and then draw to the top right. A cartridge is like a checkered sheet. At the points where a box is filled there is a warp thread that lies over a weft thread. This type of crossing between warp and weft threads is also called warp lifting. If the warp was lowered, the warp thread would be under the weft thread and the box in the cartridge would not be filled.
So-called binding points describe the crossing points of warp threads with weft threads.

Abbreviations/codings of the fabric binding

For example, an encryption of a plain weave would look like this:
10-0101-01-00
The first number indicates the type of weave: plain weave 10, twill weave 20 and old glass weave 30.
The second numbers 0101 indicate the warp raises (one) and warp drops (one). to.
The third number indicates the threadness, i.e. the number of identical threads next to each other, in this case it is only one.
The fourth number is the offset or slope number. In this case, 00 means oppositely binding or, to put it simply, no offset.

What is a report?

A repeat is the smallest pattern unit in the fabric, i.e. the minimum size that a cartridge must have in order to be able to produce a fabric.
To determine the correct minimum size you have to add up the warp raises and the warp drops. For example, if the abbreviation were 20-0301-01, then the minimum repeat that would have to be drawn would be 4x4 squares (three warp raises + one warp sinker).

Plain weave

(10-0101-01-00)

Plain weave creates a very strong fabric, it has a grainy, firm feel, is permeable to air and, with strong yarns, is very durable.
Textile products made from this binding are very durable and insensitive.
A special distinguishing feature of plain weave is its binding points, which touch on all sides. This means that both sides of the fabric have an identical appearance.

Derivatives of plain weave

Derivatives of plain weave are, for example, crosswise ribs (kettrips), longitudinal ribs (weft ribs) and the panama weave.

Twill weave

(20-0201-01-01)

Fabrics woven in a twill weave are looser and fuller than those in a plain weave, but are still very strong and durable thanks to their dense workmanship. A special identifying feature are the diagonals, the so-called twill ridge. This is created by the laterally offset binding points.
If the twill ridge runs from the top left to the bottom right, it is called an S-twill. If the ridge runs from the bottom left to the top right, it is called a Z-twill.
A distinction is also made between a warp and a weft twill. In a warp twill, more warp threads than weft threads are visible on the top side of the fabric. In a weft twill, the weft threads predominate.
The most well-known fabric that is woven in a twill weave is probably our denim.

Extensions/derivations of the twill weave

Extensions of the twill weave include, for example, equal-burr twill, multi-burr twill or wide-burr twill.
Derivatives of the twill weave are, for example, steep burr twill, flat burr twill or pointed burr twill.

Atlas binding

(30-0401-01-02)

Atlas binding creates fabrics with a loose, flowing drape. Made from fine yarns, a very dense, shiny and supple fabric is created. A special distinguishing feature of the Altas binding is its evenly distributed binding points, which do not touch each other at any point in the repeat. This means that these fabrics have a lot of thread floating, which means there is always a risk of thread pulling. These long floats occur when a warp thread lies over several weft threads. This means that this warp thread will only be tied in again later. This gives the fabric its flotation, which makes it very sensitive to pulling threads, but at the same time also gives it its supple drape. This bond is often found in lining materials such as satin.
When it comes to satin binding, a distinction is made between warp and weft atlas. In the warp atlas, the warp threads determine the top of the fabric. In the weft atlas, the top of the fabric is determined by weft threads.

Derivations of atlas binding

Derivatives of the altas weave are, for example, striped satin, colored satin or damask.